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5
STAR PRODUCT RATING |
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NEW
F502-BCW Features:
- High Performance Twin Turbofans. Total Sweep 42" Hanging
Weight: 35 lbs
- 1,000 - 1,500 R. P. M. Fan Speeds Motor
Size (m/m): 82x25 * RPM (Hi/Low): 1360/720
- Complete Assembly Rotates 360° at 3 R. P. M.
- Turbofan Heads Ajustable Up & Down
- 4 1/2" and 12" Downrods (Uses 3/4" I. D. DR5 Series Downrod),
Lead
Wire: 80"
- Wall Mount Control System Incorporating Fully Independent Fan
Head & Axis Rotation Speeds
- Integrated Halogen Light Uses 1-100W Mini-Can Halogen Bulb (Bulb
Included)
- Cap for Non-Light Use (Included).
Light Kit: Integrated
- Blade Span: 42" No. of Blades: This fan uses 6 blades Blade
Pitch: 20°
- Tip of Fan to Ceiling: distance of 23-7/8 Blade to Ceiling:
distance of 20-inches
Accessories Wide range of Downrods, Brackets and Medallions
available during checkout. |
What makes NEW MINKA F502-BCW
fans better than others? The most important consideration
when purchasing a fan (aside from the way it looks) is the size,
power, and durability of the motor. Larger more powerful motors
are more expensive than smaller more generic mass produced motors...but
they will move substantially more air without wobbling or making
noise and can be left running for days, weeks, even years on end
without burning out. The F502-BCW has the Hi-Performance Motors
to have the most air movement possible. No wobble or noise. Can
be left running 24 hours a day for a lifetime. We strongly recommend
fans with this type of motor!
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F502
BCW CUSTOMER REVIEWS:
Awesome
ceiling fan!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
By electricman
Verified Purchaser from Charlotte, NC on 9/28/2007
Pros: Circulates Air Well, Quiet, Range of Speeds, Works in
Both Directions
Best Uses: Air Circulation, Decorative, Larger Rooms Describe
Yourself: Professional Love the fan
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F502
BCW PRODUCT RATINGS:
F502-BCW Shipping Damage - Products
that receive this rating are very rarely damaged in shipping.
These are products made from heavier metals such as cast aluminum
post lanterns, ceiling fans or under cabinet lighting. To receive
this rating the product damage rate must be on the order of 1
in 500.
F502-BCW Construction Quality - this
rating are the best quality we sell and often fall at a higher
price point. These lighting fixtures are made from strong metals
like cast aluminum and wrought iron and durable tempered glass
shades. Along with quality materials, these lights and ceiling
fans are designed with ornate details and adornments. Premium
quality lighting fixtures should withstand years of use.
F502-BCW
Light Bulb Quality - Lights that receive this rating are very
good quality but a more economical price point than premium quality
lighting. While these lighting fixtures will still be made from
sturdy materials, they are usually less detailed. These lights
and ceiling fans should also endure several years of use.
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We
provide a construction quality rating of our lighting and ceiling
fans to help give you an indication of how well a particular piece
is constructed. This rating is unique to our site and is determined
by us through customer feedback and our years of experience dealing
with the lighting fixtures that we sell. We realize that there
are many factors affecting your decision when making a purchase
on-line so we try and provide useful insights to help you make
a more confident decision. We base our construction quality rating
on several factors. To receive a high rating a lighting fixture
must have the following characteristics:
* Quality Materials (strong metals, plastics or woods)
* Quality Components (durable glass shades, sturdy lamp bases,
well-built ceiling fan motors)
* Easy to Assemble (ceiling fans with few components, simple electrical
wiring) |
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OTHER
F502-BCW
PICTURES AVIALABLE:
OTHER
COLOR AND VARIATIONS TYPES OF THE F520 GYRO CEILING FANS
(Click on the pictures to veiw more details)
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Minka
Aire Traditional Gyro Ceiling Fan
in Sterling Walnut with Six Blades and Light Kit
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Minka
Lighting, Inc. Platinesque
Traditional Gyro Ceiling Fan with Six Blades and Light Kit
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F502
BCW FREQUENTLY ASKED CEILING FAN QUESTIONS:
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1.
Can I order a product in a different finish than what
is shown?
- Unfortunately not. Minka Aire
products are available only in the finishes shown.
However, some of our clients have hired a painter
to highlight or change colors and they have come out
excellent.
2.
I need instructions for my electrician to install my fixture.
- You can read below on how
to install a ceiling fan, download the
product installation manual or Please send Ask
Mr. Minka an email with the item number
and description and we will send you instructions
as needed.
3.
I am missing parts. How do I replace them?
- Return to the distributor
where you purchased the item. All of our distributors are
able to provide you with missing parts or they can
special order them for you.
4.
I have a sloped ceiling. Will the fan hang straight?
- Most of our Minka Aire ceiling
fans are equipped with a universal hanging system
made to hang from a vaulted ceiling up to a 29 degree
pitch.
- In addition we also sell a
slope hanging system kit for up to a 45 degree pitch.
These kits are available
for purchase at your local distributor or where you
buy you fan
5.
My fixture says I need to use a 60 watt bulb. Can I use
a higher wattage?
- It is not recommended that
you use a higher wattage than specified. Exceeding
the recommended wattage can create a great safety
risk to your home.
6.
How do I purchase replacements for my products?
- Contact place of purchase.
All Minka distributors are able to help you order
new replacement parts for any of our products.
7.
My remote control is not working correctly. What
should I do?
- Please check the following
possible reasons & solutions before you contact
your local distributor:
- Check your batteries to
see if it needs to be replaced.
- Check the dipswitches
in both the remote and the receiver to make sure
both are in the same position.
- If the switches are in
the correct position and the remote is not functioning,
the alternative cause could be the receiver in
the fan.
- Check the wall switch
by flipping it on and off, then retry.
- If all fails, please locate
a dealership nearest you to replace the remote.
8.
My fan is wobbling. How do I make it stop?
- Minka fans are designed to
operate smoothly and effectively. A wobbling fan is
a direct result of an incorrect assembly of the junction
box.
- Please follow the steps below
to secure the problem:
- Make sure that the "J"
box is directly secured to the ceiling joist.
- If wobbling persists,
use the balancing kit to help secure the fan.
- Check all assembly screws
to make sure all are properly tightened.
9.
My fan is making a clicking sound. How do I make it stop?
- Check to see if a screw or
nut is loose.
- Check the fan pole mounts
to make sure it's secured.
- Check the mounting bracket
located under the canopy to make sure it's secured.
- Make sure that all your screws
and nuts are tightened.
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10.
What size downrod should I buy and where do I get them?
- To determine the downrod size,
you must determine how long the blade is from
the top of the housing. Then, measure from the ceiling
to the floor and subtract 7ft from your measurement.
- Ceiling fans should not be more
than 7ft from the floor.
- Subtract 1ft from the blade
to the housing measurement which will equal the measurement
for the downrod size.
- Example: 12ft (ceiling) –
7ft = 5ft – 1ft = 4ft downrod
- If you have a standard ceiling
that is 8ft high, the purchased fan should include
a 3 ½ downrod for installation (does not
include the San Francisco fan and Flyte fan).
- Downrods can be purchased
through your local dealers.
11.
How low should a ceiling fan hang?
- Ceiling fans should not hang
any lower than 7ft from the floor.
12.
How close to a wall can I put a ceiling fan?
- A ceiling fan should be placed
no closer than 18" to the wall.
13.
My fan sounds like it is grinding or humming, What is
wrong?
- Follow the steps below:
- Check the wall switch to see
if there is a regular dimmer on the wall. This may
create a restrictive power to the fan causing the
motor to not operate properly.
- Check the glass where the
dimmer attaches to the light kit. Make sure it is
tightened.
- Check the light bulb to see
if it is touching the glass.
14.
Can a fan remote wall control be mounted in a multiple
gang junction box?
- Yes. The wall remote is designed
to fit into a standard wall receptacle.
15.
I have a remote control fan and it turns on and off on
its own. What could be wrong?
- The remote controls are designed
to use radio frequency to control the fan and lights.
The cause of your remote turning on and off on its
own may be because it is picking up another radio
frequency. They are designed to pick up any range
up to 40ft. If you have multiple fans in your home
using different remotes, you will need to change the
individual remotes to different frequencies.
16.
Can I hang a ceiling fan from a plastic junction box?
- It is NOT recommended that
a ceiling fan be hung from a plastic junction box.
The “J” box should be metal and rated
as a ceiling fan “J” box. These items
can be purchased at your local hardware store.
17.
Can I operate the fan and the lights independently of
each other with your remote?
- Yes. Each of our fan/light
controls are designed to operate separately.
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HOW
TO INSTALL A CEILING FAN by
the NRHA
(National
Retail Hardware Association)
:
GENERAL
CONSIDERATIONS
- An easy-to-install
ceiling fan can make a real difference in your home's climate–both
cooling and heating–at a far lower cost and operating
expense than almost any other item.
- The installation
begins with choosing where the fan should be located. In almost
all homes, the fan is installed in the center of the room,
replacing a central light fixture. This spot provides a smooth
air flow to most of the room.
- Since a fan draws
about the same power as a ceiling fixture, the electrical
circuit shouldn't be overloaded. But if your fan includes
lights, be sure the circuit it's on has enough extra capacity
to handle the load. If not, you must run a new circuit with
a new circuit breaker from the house main service panel or
sub-panel to the fan.
- If there is no central
light fixture, you'll have to create a place to hang the ceiling
fan. Then, you'll need to bring electrical power to it. You
can tap into an existing circuit to do this.
MOUNTING
THE CEILING FAN
- Start your installation
by turning off the power to the light's circuit breaker
or fuse. Only then should you remove the light fixture.
- If there is no central
light fixture, snap diagonal chalk lines from opposite
corners of the room to find its center. Determine whether
the lines cross exactly below a ceiling joist. If they
do, move aside just far enough between joists to let
you fasten the side of the fan's new junction box directly
to the joist.
- Cut a hole large enough
for the junction box to be slipped in. If it's next
to the joist, drill holes in its side and screw it to
the joist.
- Installation between
joists is OK, too. Fasten the box to a 2x4 header nailed
between the joists. Sometimes, you can insert a 2x4
header through the junction box's hole, nailing it to
each joist. If not, you may need to open a larger access
hole. Then, patch the hole to close it again.
- You may choose to
use a patented fan support unit designed to be inserted
through the normal junction box hole to save you from
opening a hole in the ceiling.
- Use only a metal junction
box to support a ceiling fan–never hang the fan
from a plastic box. Depending on the brand, style, and
size of your ceiling fan–and your electrical code
– you may use a 4" or 3" octagonal junction
box. (Some local codes don't permit the use of 3"
boxes.)
- The heaviest fan that
should be supported by an outlet box is 35 lbs.. If
it weighs more, the building structure must support
it.
- Whatever you do, make
sure the junction box is supported well enough to hold
at least 50 lbs. That's the weight of an average ceiling
fan. Also, your mounting must be able to withstand vibration
while the fan is running. Even a well-balanced fan creates
some vibration when it runs.
- You'll use a special
beam mount when mounting a fan to a beamed ceiling.
Use one kind for a horizontal beam, another for a pitched
beam (Fig. 3). You may need an extender to lower the
fan to the proper level.
- Fan-mounting is particularly
important because any failure to make things secure
could allow your fan to fall from the ceiling.
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Click on drawing above to view animation.
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ASSEMBLY
- Fan assembly varies
from brand to brand. Be sure to follow the specific
instructions with the unit you buy. Regardless of the
manufacturer's instructions, if the fan blades are less
than a screwdriver's length away from the ceiling, it
may be best to install the blades before hanging
the fan.
- The hanger pipe is
usually placed into its hole on top of the motor. The
wires are drawn up in the center. A set screw is tightened
securely to make sure the pipe stays in place
after it is threaded down.
- Some fans have a separate
motor hub into which the hanger pipe mounts. In this
case, you'll place the actual motor housing over the
hub.
- Other fans have a two-piece
decorative ceiling cover to hide the hole in the ceiling.
It is installed after the fan has been hung
on the ceiling.
- Tighten the set screw
well.
- Other models use a
hook, with the hanger bracket designed to accept it.
- To attach the fan blades,
set the motor unit down where it will be stable. Often,
the styrene foam packing for the motor housing makes
an excellent stabilizer on your worktable.
- Most fan blades have
a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through
holes in the blades and into the flanges. These need
to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the
threads are damaged or the laminated blade material
is crushed. On many fans you'll find the flanges, or
prongs, also need to be mounted to the motor housing.
If this is the case, mount them before the flanges are
mounted to the blades themselves.
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HEIGHT
BENEATH BLADES
- Now, check the floor-to-ceiling
height of the fan blades. You can do this by measuring
the floor-to-ceiling distance and subtracting for the
part of the fan that will extend below the ceiling down
to the lower blade surface. An absolute minimum height
of 7' is recommended. This may be reinforced by building
codes in your area.
- If the floor-to-ceiling
distance is too little, check into a low-ceiling mount
for your fan. With some models, the fan blade height
can be increased by as much as 10". Remember, though,
that you need at least 12" between the ceiling
and the tops of the fan blades for proper airflow. Having
18" is better if the space is available.
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MOUNTING
THE FAN TO THE BOX
- Install the hanger
bracket on the box with screws and lock washers.
If no lock washers are supplied, get some–they
prevent fan vibration from loosening the screws over
time.
- The hanger bracket
may accept either a half-ball hanger or a hook-type
hanger, depending on which kind your fan uses. Either
way, the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket.
- Next, the unit is wired,
and the ceiling cover is slipped up to its full height
and tightened in place.
- Be sure to connect
the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the
white house wires to the white fan wires.
- The fan should be electrically
grounded to both the metal box and the fan. The grounding
wires will be either green or bare copper. A green grounding
pigtail attached to the box by a bonding screw will
make your work easier. Wire-nut the ground wires from
the box, the fan and the power supply together.
- If the fan wobbles
when it runs, its blades may be unbalanced. To correct
this, try interchanging two adjacent blades. If that
doesn't work, take all the blades off and weigh each
one on a food or postal scale. If any is underweight,
tape a soft object such as a pencil eraser or modeling
clay to the top center of the blade, making its weight
the same as the others. Fan balancing kits with detailed
instructions are also available. Reinstall the blades
and the fan should run smoothly.
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PROBLEM
HANGING
- When nothing else works
for fan mounting, use a piece of good-looking hardwood
plywood as a fan-mount. It should be large enough to
extend over two joists. The size may be 18" x 18"
or 26" x 26", or any variant that does the
job.
- Use brass screws in
pilot-drilled holes to attach the plywood to the ceiling
joists. The screw length will vary, depending on the
thickness of the plywood and plaster or plasterboard
ceiling below the joists. Use one screw every 6".
- The plywood will have
an access hole of proper size cut in its center, and
will serve as the main mounting member for the junction
box above it.
- Finish the plywood
with an outside corner molding, mitered at the corners
for a neat appearance.
- Or, you can get a surface-mounting
fixture box along with a surface conduit wiring system
that meets electrical codes. This allows you to do the
wiring installation on the ceiling and wall, rather
than behind it.
- You may wish to wire
your new ceiling fan through a fan speed control. This
lets you set its operating speed smoothly and easily.
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SWAG
KIT USE
- Swag kits are available
if you wish to have a super-easy installation and a
degree of portability in a ceiling fan. These replace
the above-ceiling wiring job. In this case, though,
the hanger bracket is screwed directly into a ceiling
joist.
- The swag kit is wired
into the fan, and the fan assembled as described earlier.
Then slip it into the hanger bracket.
- The chain and cord
are hung from hooks carried across the ceiling, toward
a wall and down the wall, where the cord plugs into
a handy receptacle.
- A swag-mounted ceiling
fan can be taken down in a few minutes and moved to
another location.
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ELECTRICAL
SAFETY
- Use extra care when
working with electricity. Less current than it takes
to light a 60-watt bulb can be lethal.
- All wiring should conform
to local electrical codes as well as to the current
National Electrical Code (NEC). You can probably find
a copy of the NEC at your local library.
- Never trust a light
switch to render a fixture "dead," because
sometimes the power enters at the fixture, even when
the switch is located in the circuit beyond it.
- Turn off the circuit
you're working on by switching off a circuit breaker
or by unscrewing a fuse (the house main switch should
be off when handling fuses). Then padlock the panel
if you can.
- Make sure
the circuit is truly "dead" before touching
any wires or terminals. Check with a high-voltage neon
tester. Test from the black wires to a grounded metal
box or other good ground, then to the white wires. Also
test from the white wires to a ground. Since there may
be more than one circuit inside an outlet box, before
you take off a cover, see that all of its circuits
are off. Also, be sure your tester is functioning by
first trying it in a live receptacle.
- Test your finished
work with the power on using the neon tester. Check
black to white and black to a ground. It should light.
Test white to ground. It should not light.
- If you aren't knowledgeable
about working around electricity, call in a professional.
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TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST
- Ceiling Fan
- Swag Kit
- Low-Ceiling Mount
- Patented Support Unit
- Neon Test Light
- Claw Hammer
- Speed Controller
- Wallboard or Compass Saw
- Stud Locator
- Electrician's Pliers
- Cable-Ripper
- Cable, Switch/Outlet Box, Switch,
Box Connectors
- Wire-nuts, Switch Cover, Bonding
Screw, Staples
- Mounting Kit
- Lock Washers
- Angled-Ceiling Mount
- 4" x 1-1/2" Octagon
Electrical Box
- No. 2 Phillips Screwdriver
- 3/16" Slotted Screwdriver
- Pliers
- Soft Cloth
- Ladder
- Wire-Stripper
- Surface-Wiring System
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Check
your state and local codes before starting any project.
Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document
has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association
(NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been
made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor
nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or
injuries resulting from the use of the information in this
document. |
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ABOUT
MINKA GROUP THAT MANUFACTURES THE F502-BCW:
Light and air are the two elements that dominate the world of The
Minka Group, which manufactures and distributes lighting and ceiling
fan fixtures through more than 2,100 dealers in the US. The company
has an extensive product line from chandeliers to table lamps, floor
lamps to wall sconces, and mirrors to wall art. Minka markets its
products under the Ambience, George Kovacs, The Great Outdoors, Metropolitan
Lighting Fixture, Minka-Aire, and Minka Lavery brand names. Customers
range from independent lighting showroom dealers to larger accounts
such as Home Depot and Lowe's.
In its 19th year, the Minka Group has grown to become a leader in
both the lighting and ceiling fan industries. As a company, we pride
ourselves in the quality and workmanship of each and every fixture
we produce. The Minka Group employs more then 200 people in its Corona,
CA and Charlotte, NC facilities and its products are sold exclusively
through over 2100 lighting showroom dealers nationwide. Along with
its in-house design and manufacturing capabilities, the company utilizes
the talents of many of today's leading designers and sources product
components from around the world.
MINKA AIRE GROUP IS LOCATED: 1151 W. Bradford Ct. Corona,
CA 92882 USA - Map +1-951-735-9220 (Phone) 951-735-9758
Company website: http://www.minkagroup.net
Management:
Marian Tang CEO, Kurt Schulzman President, John Tarazona Corporate
Controller
Industry Information Sector: Industrial Goods Industry: Industrial
Electrical Equipment
The Minka Group has grown to become a leader in the decorative lighting
industry. As a company, they pride themselves in the quality and workmanship
of each and every fixture we produce. With the people and distribution
operating on two continents, the Minka Group family of businesses
is leading the way in product design, knit together by a single level
of quality over a broad range of price points. Our products are available
at retail under the brand names Minka-Lavery, Metropolitan, Ambience,
Minka-Aire, The Great Outdoors and George Kovacs as well as several
nationally recognized private label brands.
      
Minka Groups competitive advantage lies in:
1) An extensive product line from Chandeliers to Table Lamps, Wall
Sconces to Floor Lamps, Mirrors to Wall Art and Decorative Accessories,
representing thousands of stocked and catalogued SKU's.
2) Retail partners that include over 2100 independent lighting showroom
dealers and national accounts such as EXPO Design Center, The Great
Indoors and Restoration Hardware.
3) Manufacturing expertise in variety of materials including solid
brass, wrought iron, cast aluminum, wood, and resin.
4) National distribution centers in Corona, CA and Concord, NC economically
serving any point in the U.S. within 3 days.
THE
HISTORY OF THE CEILING FAN
A
ceiling fan is a device suspended from the ceiling of a room, which
employs hub-mounted rotating paddles to circulate air in order to
produce a cooling or destratification effect.
The first ceiling fans appeared in the 1860s and 1870s, in the United
States. At that time, they were not powered by any form of electric
motor. Instead, a stream of running water was used, in conjunction
with a turbine, to drive a system of belts which would turn the blades
of two-blade fan units. These systems could accommodate several fan
units, and so became popular in stores, restaurants, and offices.
Some of these systems still survive today, and can be seen in parts
of the southern United States where they originally proved useful.
The
electrically-powered ceiling fan was invented in 1882 by Philip Diehl
(pronounced the same as "deal"). Diehl had engineered the electric
motor used in the first Singer sewing machines, and in 1882 adapted
that motor for use in a ceiling-mounted fan. "The Diehl Electric Fan",
as it was known, operated like a common modern-day ceiling fan; each
fan had its own self-contained motor unit, eliminating the need for
costly and bulky belt systems.[1]
Diehl
was, almost immediately, up against fierce competition due to the
commercial success of the ceiling fan. However, he continued to make
improvements to his invention. One such improvement, the "Diehl Electrolier",
was a light kit adapted onto the ceiling fan to compensate for any
light fixture(s) displaced by the installation of the ceiling fan,
and/or to add extra overhead lighting to the room.
By
World War I, most ceiling fans were being manufactured with four blades
instead of the original two. Besides making fans quieter, this change
allowed them to circulate more air, thereby making more efficient
use of their motors. By the 1920s, ceiling fans had become commonplace
in the United States, and had started to take hold internationally;
however, during the Great Depression, ceiling fans faded out of vogue
in the U.S.[2] By the end of World War II, ceiling fans had become
almost non-existent, and remained that way into the 1950s. Those which
remained were considered items of nostalgia. However, the ceiling
fan was still very popular in other countries, notably those with
warm climates which could not afford high-energy-consuming devices,
namely air conditioning. In the 1960s, some Oriental manufacturers
started exporting their ceiling fans to the United States. They caught
on slowly at first, but found great success during the energy crisis
of the late 1970s, since ceiling fans consume far less energy than
air conditioning units.
Due
to this renewed commercial success, many American manufacturers started
to produce (or significantly increase production of) ceiling fans,
resulting in a revival of interest in the product. The well-known
Casablanca Fan Company was founded in 1974. Other popular American
manufacturers at the time included the Hunter Fan Co. (which was then
a division of Robbins & Myers, Inc), FASCO (F. A. Smith Co.), Emerson
Electric, and Lasko; the latter two were often relabeled and sold
by Sears-Roebuck. During the rest of the 1970s, and through to the
late 1980s, ceiling fans remained popular in the American market.
Many small American manufacturers, most of them rather short-lived,
started making ceiling fans. Throughout the 1980s, the balance of
sales between American-made ceiling fans and those imported from Asian
manufacturers changed dramatically. The high cost of American parts
and labor became prohibitive for many consumers (for example, a basic
American-made ceiling fan could cost anywhere from $100 to $250, whereas
the cost of the fanciest imported fans rarely exceeded $85).
Due
to the ever-reducing cost of amenities such as air conditioning, ceiling
fan sales once again started to decline, beginning in the early- to
mid-1990s. With the reduction in sales came a reduction in research
and development, as well as features. Once-standard features (such
as solid wood blades, built-in variable-speed dials, high-quality
stator/rotor ("stack") motors, and die-cast steel construction) have
been largely replaced by cheap, standardized parts.
While
a few companies still offer high-quality ceiling fans, the majority
of fans sold today consist of: (a) a poorly-ventilated import spinner
motor (commonly advertised as a "###x## mm direct-drive motor"), (b)
particle-board or reinforced-paperboard blades with a computer-printed
laminate plastic finish, and (c) a stylized decorative motor encasement
("housing") and adornments. All of these fans cost the same approximate
amount to produce (between $5 and $45), since the motors and blade
materials are all standardized and widely available, and inexpensive
overseas labor is used.[3] However, wholesalers and retailers set
prices by style, based on current decorating trends, meaning that
some fan models can be priced at a 1,000 percent or greater increase
over production cost ($50 to $600 retail).[4] This stands in contrast
to the 1970s, where production cost was between $60 and $150 for a
top-of-the-line American-made fan, yet retail prices were generally
$125-$300, making the average markup only about 200 percent.
Most
ceiling fans can be used in two different ways; that is, most fans
have a mechanism, commonly an electrical switch, for reversing the
direction in which the blades rotate. In summer, when the fan's direction
of rotation is set so that air is blown downward (typically counter-clockwise,
when standing under the fan and looking upwards), the breeze created
by a ceiling fan speeds the evaporation of sweat on human skin, which
is experienced as a cooling effect. In winter, buildings in colder
climates are usually heated. Air naturally stratifies--that is, warmer
air rises to the ceiling while cooler air sinks to the floor. A ceiling
fan, with its direction of rotation set so that air is drawn upward
(typically clockwise), takes cool air from lower levels in the room
and pushes it upward towards the ceiling. The warm air, which had
naturally risen to the ceiling, is forced out of the way of the incoming
cool air; it travels along the ceiling and down the walls, to lower
levels where people in the room can feel it; this reverse rotation
has the added advantages of not creating the wind-chill effect of
the summer operation scheme, and of heating the air slightly by forcing
it along the entire surface area of the ceiling which is typically
hot due to risen hot air trapped on the other side in the attic.
Safety
concerns with installation
A typical ceiling fan weighs between 15 and 35 pounds when fully assembled.
While many junction boxes can support that weight while the fan is
hanging still, a fan in operation exerts many additional stresses--notably
torsion--on the object from which it is hung; this can cause an improper
junction box to fail. For this reason, in the United States the National
Electric Code (document NFPA 70, Article 314) states that ceiling
fans must be supported by an electrical junction box listed for that
use. It is a common mistake for homeowners to replace a light fixture
with a ceiling fan without upgrading to a proper junction box.
Another concern with installing a ceiling fan relates to the height
of the blades relative to the floor. American law states that no fan
can be mounted with its blades closer than seven feet from the floor;
this often proves, however, to not be high enough. If a person fully
extends his or her arms into the air--as sometimes happens during
normal tasks such as stretching, changing bedsheets, or recreation--he/she
may become seriously injured if there is an operating ceiling fan
mounted too close. Also, if one is carrying a ladder, long wooden
board, pipe, or some other long and awkward object, one end may inadvertently
enter the path of rotation of a ceiling fan's blades; this can be
very dangerous if the fan is operating at the time, and can cause
damage to the fan regardless.
Wobbling
Wobbling is not at all created or influenced by the ceiling on which
the fan is mounted, or the way in which the fan is mounted, or anything
else along those lines. Rather, the one and only cause of wobbling
is fan blades being out of weight-alignment with each other. This
can happen due to a variety of factors, including: blades being warped,
blade irons being bent, blades or blade irons not being screwed on
straight, blades being different weights or shapes or sizes (minute
differences matter), et cetera. Despite the fact that a "balancing
kit" (bag of small, adhesive-backed metal chips) is included with
all new ceiling fans, many wobbling issues are not the result of a
blade being too light, and therefore cannot be fixed by this method.
Contrary to popular misconception, wobbling will not cause a ceiling
fan to fall. Ceiling fans are secured by clevis pins locked with cotter
pins, so wobbling can't have an effect on the fan's security. To date,
there are no reports of a fan wobbling itself off the ceiling and
falling. It is important that, when installing the fan, the installer
closely follow the manufacturer's instructions with regard to using
proper mounting screws. It is also important that all screws (especially
the set screws which hold twist-on downrods in place) be tight.
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